Thursday, May 17, 2012

Book Report


Into Thin Air: Jon Krakauer
            In Jon Krakauer's book, “Into Thin Air,” he explains a personal account of the Mount Everest Disaster in 1996.  He has been hired by O Magazine to document an ascent of the famed mountain.  At first, he is sort of reluctant to go because of his wife and her hard feelings, but he eventually commits.  The magazine tells him not to climb all the way to the summit, but he insists that with his technical climbing skills, he should climb it.  He and many other climbers were led by Rob Hall to get to the top of the summit in 1996.  Little did they know, the spring of 1996 would go down in the history books as one of the deadliest years ever on Mount Everest.  The book is about the experiences he, and many others from his group, faced in the Spring of 1996 during one of the worst storms of the mountain’s history.
            Hall is a certified guide for any group aspiring to be on the top of the world.  Hall decides to quickly speed up the acclimatization process and hopefully guide all of the climbers to the summit of the mountain safely.  The mountain is set up with a series of camps that the climbers stay at to help acclimatize.  Hall’s plan is to stay at base camp for a couple of weeks before continuing.  After they leave they stop at camp one.  They continue to make a series of ascensions up and down the mountain to speed up the process of acclimatization to prevent altitude sickness.  All of the clients have troubles adjusting, but some however, are more qualified and independent than those who have to rely heavily on the guides and the Sherpas.  The first death in the book happens when a climber from another group contracts HAPE—a serious altitude sickness that happens to a person when they climb up in altitude way too fast.  There is then a 2:00 turn-around time that Hall instructs to all of the climbers.  This means that no matter how close they are to the summit of the mountain, they must turn around at 2:00 pm.  Krakauer and a few others reach the summit just before the time.  However, some of the other climbers reach the summit as late as 4:00 pm because the turn-around time was not enforced.  Some of those later arrivals included Rob Hall, his guide.  Krakauer was lucky enough to just hit the tail end of a storm that hits the top when he reaches camp four, the highest camp.  Unfortunately, all of his teammates are still at the top in the middle of one of the worst storms of the mountain’s history.  Hall eventually gets stranded and his partner, Hansen, runs out of supplemental oxygen and cannot continue down the mountain.  Also, another group gets stranded in the blizzard and a Sherpa rescues all but two of that group.  Hall is also killed along with a Sherpa that was trying to rescue him.  Surprisingly, one of the climbers left for dead makes it out of the mountain alive.  Beck Whethers makes it out, but he eventually has to receive extensive amputations and surgeries because of the injuries he received from the extreme temperatures.
            While Jon was sent up just to document the effects of the industrialization of Everest on the mountain, he became part of history.  He was in the middle of the most severe modern storm Everest had ever experienced.  After he got home and wrote the article for the O, he had to write this book.  He saw terrible things up there that one can never forget.  He apologizes for all of the frustration and anger this book might ensue to the families of lost climbers of Everest.

A clip from "The Man who Skiied Down Everest"

Yuichiro Miura skiies down Mount Everest in 1970--an unimaginably dangerous feat only done by the bravest of the bravest.  Eight people died during the ascension of the mountain before this was accomplished.
The shown route is the one taken by Krakauer and his team

Why I chose this Topic

     I decided to choose this topic for a few reasons.  First of all, I am starting to get into this sort of stuff.  It just really interests me how some people are crazy enough to do some of this.  Second of all, I really enjoy Jon Krakauer.  He is a great author.  Last semester in American Lit., I read "Into the Wild."  I was going to just read that again, but it didn't meet the page number requirement.  I really enjoyed reading that and I thought if this was anything like it, then I would love it.  So, I decided I would try it out.  It turns out that I really liked the book.  The book also explains a lot about the first climbers of Mount Everest so I thought I would use that to my advantage and talk about the most significant climbs of the mountain.

-Trevor S.

Erik Weihenmayer -- First Legally Blind Ascent

     Erik Weihenmayer, a former middle school teacher and wrestling coach, has become one of the most famous athletes in the world.  He became legally blind at the age of 13 and has not ever let that serve as an excuse not to do something. He has always been a climber.  His aspirations led him to climb Mount Everest.  He climbed Mount Everest on May 25, 2001.  By doing so, he became the first blind man to climb the mountain.  After he achieved this, he eventually became one of about 100 of the greatest mountaineers to climb the Seven Summits.  He has written a book and he was also starred in a documentary.  He has also climbed El Capitan in Yosemite--an almost vertical flat mountain.  This has all gained him extraordinary press attention.

Erik is the one shown in the red without the glasses.

-Trevor S.

Reinhold Messner & Peter Habeler -- The First Oxygen-less Ascent

     Messner and Habeler were what many call "lunatics."  These people climbed numerous mountains without bottled oxygen.  In 1975, they had both daringly climbed the 11th highest mountain in the world, Gasherbrum, without bottled oxygen.  By 1978, they aspired to do the most daring attempt ever.  They set their sights on climbing Mount Everest, an entire 29,035 feet (8850 meters).  They were not really accepted in the climbing and medical communities because of the immense dangers that may accompany this expedition.  Even though there was all of this controversy, they were still set for their plan.  They set out on April 21 and reached Camp III April 23, but Habeler developed food poisoning and they had to turn back.  They had reached the South Col on May 6 after deciding to give it one more try.  They awoke at 3 am to try making it to the summit.  It took them two hours just to get dressed.  Even though the weather was threatening, they decided to continue on to the summit.  Around 1 or 2 in the afternoon, they had reached the unimaginable accomplishment that no one thought was possible.  Messner described his feeling: 'In my state of spiritual abstraction, I no longer belong to myself and to my eyesight.  I am nothing more than a single narrow gasping lung, floating over the mists and summits."

The two guys on the mountain.  "I want those sunglasses!"

-Trevor S.

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Sir Edmund Hillary & Tenzing Norgay -- First Successful Summit

     On May 29, 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Tenzing Norgay of Nepal became the first climbers to ever be on top of the world.  Tenzing Norgay was actually a sherpa as a child but later moved to India where he was asked to assist in the expedition.  They started climbing after months of planning and organizing and on their way up, they established a set of nine camps that some climbers still use even today.  They awoke at 4 am on the 29th only for Hillary to find his boots totally frozen.  He spent two full hours defrosting them before they left.  They came across a very large and rocky obstacle that they had difficulties overcoming.  This rock is now known as Hillary's Step.  They reached the summit at 11:30 and only spent 15 minutes at the summit due to their lack of oxygen.  They spent this time taking many pictures and looking for evidence of a previous exploration that never returned to see if they had actually reached the summit before them.  Sure enough, they found none.  News of their accomplishment spread around the world and they became heroes for doing this unimaginable feet.


This is an image of the two on their trek.

-Trevor S.

Brig.-Gen. Charles Granville Bruce -- First Attempts

     Brigadier General Charles Granville Bruce of England was born on April 7, 1866.  He was a soldier and fought in the Third Burma war along with several others.  As evidenced by his name, he eventually became a brigadier general in 1920 becuase of his services in the Indian Army.  He was the commander of the first ever Mount Everest excursion in 1922 and the second in 1924.  During his attempt in 1922, seven unfortunate deaths occured which resulted in an abort of the mission. 
     In his second attempt in 1924, he had a similar outcome.  He led a team of explorers, Edward Norton, Howard Somervell, John Noel, Geoffery Bruce, Noel Odell. Bentley Beetham, John de Vere Hazard, Andrew Irvine, E. O. Shebbeare and Dr. R.W.G. Hingston, who all had to exit the mission. Two explorers had experienced a notable and legendary death.

-Trevor S.

Tuesday, May 8, 2012

A climbing video compiled of footage and images along the south Col summit on Mount Everest.

-Trevor S.

Works Cited

"About Erik Weihenmayer World Class Adventurer." About Erik Weihenmayer. Touch the

     Top, 
   
     2012. Web. 17 May 2012. <http://www.touchthetop.com/about.htm>.

"First Without Oxygen." PBS. PBS, Nov. 2000. Web. 17 May 2012. <http://www.pbs.org

     /wgbh/nova/everest/history/firstwoo2.html>.

Krakauer, Jon. Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mount Everest Disaster. New York:
     Villard, 1997. Print.

Marler, William. "Everest." : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost. Summit 

     Post, 29 Oct. 2010. Web. 16 May 2012. <http://www.summitpost.org/everest/150230>.

"MOUNT EVEREST HISTORY/FACTS:." Mt Everest History and Facts. Web. 16 May 2012. 

     <http://www.mnteverest.net/history.html>.
 
"Person Page - 4317." - Person Page 4317. The Peerage. Web. 16 May 2012. <http://the

     peerage.com/p4317.htm>.

Rosenberg, Jennifer. "1953 - Hillary and Norgay Climb Mount Everest." About.com 20th
     Century History. About. Web. 17 May 2012. <http://history1900s.about.com/od/1950s
     /qt/mteverest.htm>.
Weihenmayer, Erik. Touch the Top of the World. New York, NY: Dutton, 2001. Print.
 
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